The Welcome Mat

Returning from the synagogue, we made it just in time to get on the bus and make our way to The Hassan II Mosque, sometimes nicknamed the "Casablanca Hajj". Built on the shoreline of Casablanca, it is the largest mosque in Morocco and Africa and the 7th largest in the world. Its minaret is among the world's tallest at 60 storied high with a laser light that shines toward Mecca.

My "dance partner" for the day is Nancy Nolan, a self identified Jewbuliccan. Jewish- married to a Jewish man she raised a Jewish daughter and celebrates Jewish holidays.
Buddhist- A student and practitioner of Buddhist meditation
Catholic- Born Irish Roman Catholic, she is both spiritually and culturally Catholic
Wiccan- Interested in indigenous, Native American earth based religion. Just as importantly, she identifies as a warrior, which is evident by her strength and energy.  Rarely is she without a twinkle in her eye, a generous spirit and a joy inducing robust laugh.

Together we explore the plaza and watch the ocean waves before our tour begins of this majestic sacred space.

As we enter what is most intriguing to me is that this masjid boasts glass insets in the floor where the sea bed can be seen and a retractable roof where the sky can be seen.  There water, air and earth meet and the element of fire is added by a flame. 

Standing in the space, pigeons fly across the vast expanse. The guide says that over 100,000 people can pray within and outside the mosque's grounds.  It is massive.

It was certainly beautiful and inspiring and yet not surprising that the decision to build this mosque was controversial for Moroccans, on one hand clearly a point of national and religious pride and on the other, such a vast amount of resources poured into a project that could be directed to feed and care for people. Over 12 million people donated by the end.

I shared with Nancy that as my community moves into its own building, that is even humble in comparison to the 300 person sized synagogue in Casablanca about the nature of space.  I question the value of opulence in the name of religion.  The beauty of  both spaces were magnificent and special beyond belief. I understand that we often feel that way about God.  Our enthusiasm wants to interpret that fervor of adoring God through adornment. 

As an art lover and a fan of architecture, I can relate.  But the Tower of Babel comes to mind in all our structures. Even when the impetus is to exult God not overthrow God, the building itself can distract.  It's a contrary notion to how we are wired.  It is in the ocean, or the mountains that I feel the Godly magnificence of creation more than any palatial cathedral or temple. We agreed that Nature unlocks our awe more than anything 

Perhaps more than the grandest ark, or the most vivid stained glass windows or the highest minaret--we should all keep our eye on the most important symbol: the welcome mats of our homes of worship.

There's nothing like the feeling of being embraced and having a sense of "Welcome Home."

 

Meeting Elijah

Traveling with 30 people can be like trying to keep frogs in a barrel long enough to make it to the destination.

Making it through customs and out of the airport in Casablanca, we were challenged keeping it all together. One pilgrim was led a different way out of the airport so by the time we met our tour guide, Faed he was frazzled and we were all ready late.

Groggy from traveling, we rode on the bus adjusting to the sights.  We had a lovely (if not a tad cliché) dinner at Rick's Cafe.  My partner for the day was Amina, an Ismaili Muslim physician who was incredibly curious and interested in the world around her.

Arriving at the hotel, I convinced two pilgrims to join me on a 10 min walk to find the synagogue Beth El. Father Jeffrey Ott and Dr. Keith Wood who used to lead a Seventh Day Adventist informed community.  A fierce triad we were.

The first clue that this would be an adventure was that on my GPS app the address was on one street and the location symbol was on the next. Then as we started walking the bustling streets of Casablanca, my GPS stopped functioning.

Walking in the direction of the synagogue, three young men ran out in front of us and started fighting blocking our way.  The three of froze silently trying to assess the situation.  More men began to join the fight and I felt torn.  Wrestling with what was the responsibility of our own safety and of protecting another, especially as foreigners.

We wandered a good bit the wrong way but then found the right street.  There were a handful of places with high gates and no signage where I wondered if a synagogue took refuge behind those high walls.  Eventually on a small offshoot of the street we were on at the end of the street was a "beit menachem mendel".  I had found the Chabad. 

As we headed back four kittens ran out into street crying for food.  We made it back to the hotel only partially successful.

The next morning, two of the Jewish pilgrims asked if I had been successful in finding the synagogue.  We decided to head over.  We found the chabad again.  We were allowed in and heard the davening above as we explored the beit hamidrash.  We met a few of the Moroccan Jews and were on our way.

Jeffrey pointed to a gate saying that he thought a synagogue was behind the door.  Just before we headed across the street, a man appeared and walked to the gate and opened them.  Timing wise, it was like he was Elijah.

We approached, he was apprehensive at first but we explained we were Jews in broken French. He saw my yarmulke and let us into the beautiful courtyard.  We followed him into the sanctuary as he welcomed us in and Beth El was beautiful with stunning Chagall inspired stained glass windows with each tribe and beautiful chandeliers.

There's a sacred nature of space.  To be in Jewish space across the world binds us.  To add a blessing where my Moroccan brother and sisters had been before felt like an honor.  It was like encountering buried treasure.

Our Elijah was patient, it seemed as if he was the shamash. He appreciated our witness and excitement at discovering this spiritual home of our community. We embraced as we left. 

When seeking Jews around the world, there's almost always Elijah waiting to greet you.